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Decanter Panel Tasting, November 2009: Alsace Grand Cru Riesling 2007
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One of the panel tastings in the November 2009 issue of Decanter was of Alsace Grand Cru Riesling 2007 - a bumper year for Alsace's most distinguised cépage. Here's the text of the introduction that I wrote for the tasting: DECANTER PANEL TASTING, NOVEMBER 2009 ALSACE GRAND CRU RIESLING 2007  a selection of bottles from Domaine Weinbach, whose Riesling L'Inédit, Cuvée Ste Catherine was highly recommended (4 *) in the panel tasting Riesling is the aristocrat among Alsace's six white grape varieties, responsible for elegant, complex, long-lived wines. Arriving here from Germany in the 15th century it steadily established itself in prime sites throughout the area. CIVA figures (2008) give 3,376ha of Riesling planted, 354ha in Grand Cru (GC) vineyards. The concept of a GC designation in Alsace to single out distinct terroirs with a centuries'-old track record was first mooted in 1962 with the creation of Alsace AOC. The work of the Comité de Délimitation des Grands Crus, presided over initially by the late, lamented Johnny Hugel, led in 1983 to a list of 25 Grand Cru vineyards, followed by 25 in 1992 and Kaefferkopf in 2008, making 51 today. Together GCs represent about 10% of total AOC Alsace production, about 1,500ha out of the 15,300ha under vine. The GC designation (for Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Gewurztraminer only), is not without critics. For many (including Hugel, who later resigned, dismayed at the direction things were taking), the rules on yields, minimum alcohol levels and must weights were hopelessly over-indulgent, though good work has since been done to tighten these up. The most serious criticism was (and remains) of the GC vineyard boundaries, which were drawn far too widely. The limits of the Schlossberg vineyard, for example, were initially drawn at 28 hectares but later blossomed into 80 hectares. There was also the ‘me-too' phenomenon: every village along the Route des Vins wanted (and generally got) its GC, regardless of real merit. As George Orwell might have remarked, all Grands Crus are equal, only some are more equal than others. In light of the above, it would be a mistake to regard the GC designation as a guarantee of quality, rather (at best) as an indicator of terroir. Riesling's great trump card is that it combines its noble nature with a chameleon-like ability to reflect the characteristics of the place in which it grows. It's in GC vineyards, with their multiplicity of terroirs, that you'll find Riesling's most vivid and varied expressions - citrus fruit, mineral and floral notes and/or the (in)famous goût de pétrole, the oily, petrolly aromas found in Rieslings grown in certain soils and of a certain age. Alsace being the champion of varietal wines, mention of the cépage features along with the GC name (e.g. Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg). A recent proposal to drop any mention of grape variety in GC wines was greeted with a loud collective raspberry from many winegrowers who value the simple clarity of varietal labelling, calling the proposal ‘a catastrophe'. [Watch Decanter.com for future developments.] 2007 was a textbook Riesling vintage. Spring was exceptionally warm but the summer turned cool, bringing violent hailstorms to some Haut-Rhin vineyards. Generally, though, the grapes matured slowly and as the season wore on the nights were deliciously cool - just what Riesling loves. The harvest, in gloriously sunny September conditions, was quite early but with a ‘late vintage character' to it, according to Etienne Hugel. Rieslings from this vintage, bone dry with steely acidity and complex minerally aromas are worth stocking up on and squirreling away - 5 years in any case, but 10 or more for the finest wines from the best sites/growers.  Barrels in Jean-Marc-Bernhard's cellar in Katzenthal - his Riesling Schlossberg was awarded five stars by the tasters ALSACE RIESLING, RECENT VINTAGES 2000 - a bumper vintage with some standout wines - drink up 2001 - in spite of an on-off summer and wet harvest, some beautifully concentrated Rieslings worth holding on to 2002 - mixed year with capricious harvest weather but some excellent Rieslings - give them a bit longer to show their full potential 2003 - the heatwave, with conditions in Alsace not seen since 1540 - a challenge for winegrowers but Riesling with its inbuilt acidity levels held up better than most cépages 2004 - wet summer but good weather windows during the harvest, where skilful viticulture paid dividends 2005 - a patchy year for Riesling so important to be selective and patient - keep them a while longer 2006 - a challenging vintage but some fine wines produced by the most skilful - choose carefully and drink up 2007 - a cool summer turned into a superb autumn; a textbook Alsace vintage with beautifully structured Rieslings worth laying down |